The evolution of models in three decades: How the ‘tops’ of 90s changed

The evolution of models in three decades: How the ‘tops’ of 90s changed – almost a century has passed since the concept of the supermodel as we know it now began to take shape in 1930. To date, companies presented their new collections with models (or clients, sometimes) who performed a mere mannequin function: that of showing off the garments.

By Megan Sauer

Thanks to the appearance of figures such as Lisa Fonssagrives (considered the first top model in history), Twiggy or Lauren Hutton , over the following decades, began to transform the conception of this profession, which little by little converted the woman who paraded in much more than that. However, it was not until the late 1980s that fashion would change forever thanks to them.

Names like Claudia Schiffer, Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, Helena Christensen and Linda Evangelista managed to redefine the role of models, laying the foundations and becoming global icons.

But what has changed since then? A new generation is making its way with strides with the example to follow of its predecessors, but also with much more to teach the world, redefining beauty towards a more inclusive path.

Changing the foundation

If there is something that all the models who have dedicated themselves to this profession then and now have in common, it is the constant fight against imposed beauty stereotypes . Cindy Crawford remembered that in the 90s she managed to make her dark hair her hallmark, because she was considered exotic.

The reason? They prioritized women with white skin and blonde hair on the catwalk. An ideal with which, obviously, Naomi Campbell did not fit : “I did big shows, I wore beautiful dresses in the shows…, but then they didn’t call me to do advertising,” recalls the ebony goddess in the documentary The Supermodels (2023 ) from Apple TV+.

Decision power

“You can make decisions and actively participate in your career,” Christy Turlington recalls in the same documentary. And part of the success that the supermodels of the 90s enjoyed is due to the empowerment that they little by little were experiencing.

“We became the representation of power,” says Naomi, recalling the time when they decided to raise their voice and not only lend their image to the firms, but also their opinion . In the 90s, models like Linda Evangelista refused to work with designers who did not also call Campbell to walk. At that time, she also starred in various headlines for demanding a salary equal to that of her colleagues, something for which she has always maintained that she was labeled a “difficult woman.”

© Getty Images

Evolution towards a more inclusive beauty

They say that it is small gestures that make big changes, something that we may have seen exemplified in the world of fashion.

During the 90s and much of the 2000s, the aesthetic of tall, very thin women (there was even a rejection of athletic bodies), mostly white-skinned and free of imperfections, was the boss.

The makeup was photoshopped from the catwalk, as Cindy Crawford recalls in The Supermodels , where she explains how photographers and some makeup artists eliminated the iconic dark mole on her lip that she has.

A complex from the model’s adolescence, which later ended up becoming one of her most characteristic details when she asked that it not be retouched anymore.

© Getty Images

Using fashion to make diseases visible

The generational change of models has made it possible to see versatility parade down the catwalk . And we’re not just talking about different body types, ages or nationalities (how can we forget Simone Rocha’s Fall/Winter 2019 presentation at London Fashion Week?).

There are also those who have given voice to diseases or conditions that years ago had no place in this profession. Winnie Harlow (29) suffered bullying at school and high school because of the depigmented appearance of her skin that causes vitiligo , which did not prevent her from forging an important international career that she began in 2014 with Desigual.

Also last year she surprised Lila Moss by parading her, making visible the insulin pump that she carries on her arm, something that in the time of her mother, Kate Moss, we would not have even imagined.

The fight for ‘body positive’

“I had a difficult time in which androgynous women were very popular, very thin, which reflected poor health,” Aida Artiles recalled in an interview with FASHION when talking about her beginnings as a model a couple of decades ago.

“Like her, a large number of women have confessed how present this request to weigh less in order to work in the profession has been. “They told me that it would be good for me to lose a couple of kilos ,” Linda Evangelista recently recalled, who like her other colleagues, ended up suffering from an eating disorder.

Celebrate women no matter what they are

Models like Ashley Graham (36) or Paloma Elsesser (31) are not only plus-size faces of the sector, but also activists whose objectives include not dividing fashion by sizes, but paving the way towards diversity.

And this means sharing the catwalk with other women, taller, shorter, thinner… “I want to see women with big bodies, dark skin, disabled people, of all identities…”, claimed Elsesser on social networks after being named the star of a campaign with Zara in 2021.

Activism

Models have almost naturally become a speaker to expose and defend different causes , something that comes almost innately in the new generations. Cameron Russell (36), Victoria’s Secret angel, has long been involved in the fight for climate change.

Cara Delevingne (31) dedicated the last few years before retiring for a time from the catwalk to defending sustainable fashion, in which she managed to involve Karl Lagerfeld himself.

And models like Hunter Schafer, Valentina Sampaio or Aaron Philip have become faces of the defense of LGBTQ rights, an absolutely taboo topic in the 90s on the catwalk.

Greater decision-making power

Cindy Crawford said that when she was young her hair was cut against her will for a session. “They sent a hairdresser to my room, made me a ponytail and cut it without asking me.” Her voluminous hair was turned into a very short pixie without consent , even having previously expressed her desire not to do so to the photographer who requested it, Patrick Demarchelier.

“Something that is far from current examples, in which models have greater ability to decide on their appearance, since they are owners of it, beyond work. An example of this was Kendall Jenner last year, when she decided to dye her hair red without prior consultation, just a few days before the shows she had at Paris Fashion Week. And no, she didn’t receive any reprimands (that we know of).

Models don’t want to be just models

Now they also combine their profession in the spotlight with personal projects that they have turned into their own businesses . And from which, in addition, they get a great return. From Hailey Bieber with her cosmetic brand Rhode , to Bella Hadid marketing her own drinks, to her sister Gigi with her knitwear brand, Guest in Residence … Or even Kendall Jenner with 818, the bottles of her tequila.

Although the young woman has also recently started in the real estate world, restoring old houses: “As a model, I still don’t have much of a say in the creative processes,” she explained in the reality show about her family. “That has led me to want to start this journey.”

Before they needed the designers, now they needed the models

Four decades ago, when social networks did not exist and models were not discovered through a viral publication, they used the power of agencies, advertising and designers, when it came to making their talent known. Couturiers like Gianni Versace boosted the popularity of Carla Bruni and Naomi Campbell. And Karl Lagerfeld did the same with Claudia Schiffer.

Nowadays that relationship between model and designer is not so dependent, in fact sometimes it turns out the other way around: they are the ones who include the most popular faces on the scene to rejuvenate their brand or create greater impact in their collections. Something that Dolce & Gabbana or Balmain have been doing in recent years.

The rise of ‘nepo babies’

Kate Moss was discovered in an airport at the age of 14, Linda Evangelisra after entering a beauty pageant, Naomi while she was studying ballet in London… The way top models began in this profession before and now, calls without a doubt the attention.

While icons from then did not even seem to be looking for it , many of the young models who dominate the current scene have carved out a niche for themselves thanks to the undeniable help of their family.

They are what the most critics call nepo babies : Lila Moss (daughter of Kate), Kaia Gerber (daughter of Cindy Crawford), Iris Law (daughter of actor Jude Law), Leni Klum (daughter of Heidi)… are just a few. of them.

“Maybe that opens doors for you,” said Lily-Rose Depp, daughter of Johnny Depp and Vanessa Paradis. “But there is a lot of work afterwards.” Something that all of them strive to demonstrate with their work.